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“Google Maps lies,” said reception as I peeled off my Tortuga backpack in the colorful lobby of my Lisbon hostel. I fanned myself with my hands, back drenched, bare faced and recovering from a curse-inducing, hamstring-burning trudge up the Ascensor da Glória. It’s only a 10 minute walk from Restauradores to The Independente, it said. Easy.

Not so. With a month’s worth of added pounds on my back, the trek up one of Lisbon’s most Instagram-worthy hills seemed to stretch on. At that moment, the cute trolley (or funicular, as they say) that will ease you to the top as you spill out onto the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara was not so quaint and dreamy.

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During my first full day in Lisbon, its archetype accompanied me around my unstructured agenda through the historical Alfama district, Lisbon’s oldest and a mostly residential neighborhood.

It started at the Fruteria de São Miguel.

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Travel surprises, delights, challenges. It is what keeps me obsessively monitoring for airfare deals and error fares. Eyes tearing through magazines and blogs and anything with Anthony Bourdain’s name to it, and why my ears perk up when I overhear mention of Destination X at the coffee shop, in barre class, waiting for the set to roll in.

It will give you only as much as you can handle, encouraging you to be present, to seize the moment and trust yourself.

During my first full day in Lisbon, its archetype accompanied me around my unstructured agenda through the historical Alfama district, Lisbon’s oldest and a mostly residential neighborhood.

It started at the Fruteria de São Miguel.

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Eggplant

Photo by Haaps & Barley

The sound of the coffee machine sputtering in the morning takes me back to weekends from my childhood, when my parents would sit and chat in the dining room before my sister and I made our way to breakfast, their muffled voices and clinking spoons clearing the fog from my head.

The smell of carne asada transports me to late nights with friends in college, which is a habit that still persists today.

Don’t even get me started on the poetry of freshly steamed rice, smoky kalua pig and a tub of fresh ahi poke; I’ve shared many a mixed plate with local and visiting friends and family over the years as a youth on Kaua’i, and now as a returning visitor.

Five years ago, I was at a food conference in Santa Monica when I first had my taste of the eggplant and yogurt combo (and an introduction to cold brewed coffee). It was the first time I had yogurt outside of breakfast time, and as a main ingredient for a savory dish. I liked it a lot. 

Food brings people together; its language is universal – so long as it’s good 😉

Jill (from Haaps & Barley and author of all of these Curious Palate recipes lately) shares a similar sentiment, and her recipe for an eggplant and yogurt recipe below. I’ll be making mine with Japanese eggplant, my variety of choice:

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