Ten Things I Learned in Panama

May 20, 2014 //
2

A collection of insights I’ve gleaned after a week-long trip to Panama. In no particular order and some less practical than others, and nearly all involving food. Here it goes:

  • Eat your ice cream fast or the the sun will zap your treat quicker than you’ll have time to slurp up the slush.
  • There is no bus schedule. Headed to El Valle de Anton? Hail a taxi to the Albrook bus terminal (or maybe take the new Metro), look for your destination plastered on the row of windows, hand over your cash and board the vehicle with your desired destination and wait till the vehicle is full before departing.
Our rapidly melting treats from Granclement in Casco Viejo.

Our rapidly melting treats from Granclement in Casco Viejo.

  • For shorter shuttle service, $5-$7 will get you a cab ride almost anywhere within and around the city
  • The free zone, Colon: part holding area for goods on their way to Latin America and the Caribbean via the Panama Canal, part mega strip-mall at mega-appealing prices. For example, a pair of the latest Nike’s = $50. You’re welcome.
  • The Guna Yala people, the indigenous folks that call the San Blas islands home are some of the friendliest and good-humored people I’ve met. They are proud of their specks of paradise; I couldn’t help but crack an endearing smile when one of them, our boat navigator shouted over the roar of the waves as we whipped past, “Es mi Isla!” Quite literally, that was his island. (They are also quite adept at navigating the waters slightly inebriated)
San Blas, Panama

San Blas, Panama

  • Maybe this is a universal truth, but a mojito tastes best outside with the sun beating down and the humidity at an all-time high. Also, if you are in Casco Viejo and are in the mood for the refreshing beverage, the mojitos are better at the little place wedged between the Red Lion pub and the Italian restaurant.
  • According to our driver in Colon, Panama is one of the only countries where you can watch the sunrise over the Pacific and see the sunset beyond the Atlantic.
  • The local fruit is so sweet, and so delicious. I was skeptical at first (I too grew up in the tropics), but fruit cup I had at a fruteria in the El Cangrejo neighborhood made a believer out of me
  • Is it just me, or is Panama City severely lacking in dark beer options?
  • Air Conditioning is. a. must. Lesson learned.
Fruit stand on the way to El Valle de Anton.

Fruit stand on the way to El Valle de Anton.

 

Note: I traveled to Panama during the tail end of its dry season and was fortunate to spend a lot of time outside and travel quite easily through the mountains to get to San Blas from Panama City.

 

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Categories Panama, Travel, Travel Tips

Excerpt from Panama: Casco Viejo

May 19, 2014 //
6

We whizzed through the narrow, brick-layed streets, our cabbie with reckless confidence and me, the dizziness from my mild dehydration exacerbated by his aggressive maneuvers. He stopped abruptly in front of the Panamericana Hostel [UPDATE 2018: Now, a swanky club], our sleeping quarters for the next several days in Casco Viejo, Panama City’s historic quarter and UNESCO World Heritage site.

The sun hid deceivingly behind the cloud cover that afternoon and the days that followed. Its heat, coupled with the moisture in the air assaulted us every time we stepped out into Plaza Herrera, or trudged the handful of blocks to Luna’s Castle to book a jaunt to San Blas and as we strolled around in search of our next ceviche fix.

We were so removed from the manicured neighborhoods of San Diego. Being in Casco felt a bit like New Orlean’s French Quarter; beautiful arched windows and ornate balconies for days.

Graffiti greets you as you turn the corner of both crumbling and newly restored buildings. The old town is small, and although we meandered through the same streets multiple times during our stay we always seemed to stumble across a new alley, cafe or a different view of the new causeway, which created quite the traffic jam on the day of its inauguration (Apparently the then President was in town to help with the inaugurating).

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One of the handful of graffiti murals around Casco Viejo.

We woke each morning to the sound hammers whacking away at yet another renewal project to complement the cafes and the few swanky bars already in place. The newer boutique accommodations and evening entertainment options like the American Trade Hotel and the Hotel Tantalo rooftop bar seemed to mingle amicably with the more casual options; we frequented both with ease.

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The Panamericana Hostel in Plaza Herrera; next door, a neglected building and across it the American Trade Hotel.

Many buildings remain neglected, and an eye sore on the one hand. Rather than view it that way, I chose to see the renewal among the scraps; a second chance. Most of the ragged buildings were still standing, as if seeing the rest of the town grow more vibrant each day gave them a reason to hang on.

Casco Viejo’s future is a beehive; it is buzzing within the circle who have already bore witness to its potential while the murmurs from outside begin to get louder. Being there last month felt like watching a rehearsal of a grand performance; the fundamentals are there, all it needs is a little more practice to smooth out the rough patches and work out the dynamics.

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View of the new causeway (it lights up different colors at night), and beyond it Panama City.

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Categories Panama, Travel

San Diego: Summer Hit List

May 14, 2014 //
0

I feel fortunate to live in a city that experiences more than 300 days of sunshine year-round, but there is something about summer (except for the peculiar phenomenon San Diegan’s call June Gloom) that makes America’s Finest City even brighter. With that said, here are five happenings around San Diego that have piqued my interest and am looking forward to experiencing this summer, in no particular order:

  1. The Quartyard: Ever since I caught wind of what Eater San Diego describes as a “pop-up marketplace,” I’ve been anxiously awaiting updates for a solid launch date. The space, which will be built out in the burgeoning East Village neighborhood of Downtown will be designed to hold a multitude of events, including live music and perhaps even a beer festival or two as well as serve some local grub. I am hoping the vibe will end up similar to the effortlessly cool, backyard watering places of Rainey Street in Austin.
  2. Star Trek film screening with live score performed by the San Diego Symphony: While I’m not a Trekkie, I was a a former high school band geek (give it up for my alto sax players) and because of it have developed an affinity for live musical performance. Spending an evening outdoors, tandem to the movie and accompanied by a live orchestra sounds like the ultimate summer treat.
  3. Dive Dayclub at Harrah’s: Full disclosure, the marketing firm I work for does some work with Harrah’s. With the success of the launch of their new adult pool party concept last year and $160 million facelift I am having recurring visions of cooling off in the lazy river, mojito (or two) in hand. [UPDATE 2018: Dive Day Club is no longer. In it’s place, Splash –– more at the link]
  4. San Diego International Beer Festival: Blonde, amber, dark – I don’t discriminate. I love beer. Except for you IPA; I just don’t understand you yet. [UPDATE 2018: Oh how far we’ve come from 2014! Since then my beer palate has expanded, how can it not when San Diego is considered one the country’s craft beer capitals?]
  5. A day at the races in Del Mar: I made this promise to myself last year to no fruition. This year, I am determined to partake in a tradition that’s been making the rounds for more than 50 years. This is also a perfect opportunity to shop for a new dress, and one of those cool hats, so you know, I’ll be hitting two birds with one stone on this one.
Del Mar races (Photo credit: SanDiego.org)

Del Mar races (Photo credit: SanDiego.org)

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Categories California, San Diego
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